Westland weather

We woke up this morning in what felt more like a lake than the tent we usually sleep in. It has been pouring down like crazy all night and still is actually. We thought we were lucky enough to miss the worst of the so famous Westland weather, but today we were caught in the middle of it. The massive rainstorm made it impossible for us to even try to cook our traditional oatmeal brekkie. We had to leave immediately. All day, it's been raining and hailing horizontally due to the 40+ km/h northwesterlies. It was some very exhausting 60km to get to Hokitika. I now know not to underestimate the NZ weather because it can be devastating.

Anyway, soaked as we were we managed to find ourselves a hostel for the night, where we are going to celebrate our 3 months away from home by cooking some good food and watch an awful lot of movies! I sincerely hope that the following days will have some nicer weather in store for us, but what can you really do about it.

Westland

About a week have passed since we left Queenstown behind! Not only did we have an amazing time there, but also did we meet a whole bunch of awesome people to spend those fourteen days with! However, after two weeks of beer drinking it's been quite pleasant to be back on the road again. The first day from Queenstown we figured we would take the short way to Wanaka over the mountain pass, but changed our mind as soon as we realized how steep it would be. So we took the detour which was the by far best alternative, two days of beautiful scenery and "mostly" downhill roads along vineyards and clearblue rivers took us to Wanaka. From Wanaka we started heading north towards our forth province, Westland.

The ride from Wanaka to Haast at the coast was by far the most scenic one so far during our month-long trip. For about 100km were we accompanied by the outlandishly blue lakes and the snow covered mountaintops. It all seemed so unreal and we felt very grateful to be able to witness this natural wonder. The profile of the ride however was perhaps not the easiest one. A LOT of steep ups and downs made us quite exhausted, but the will to keep on going still made us push through it and the gorgeous landscape did ofcourse play its part.

We went from the grazelands of the interior country, through the dense rainforests, over the exhausting Haast-pass only to emerge at the coast with the roaring surf welcoming us. No words can describe the feeling. It didn't take too long for our mood to change though when we discovered our new worst enemy, SANDFLIES. What these tiny creatures lack in comparison to mosquitos, they make up in sheer numbers. I'd gladly live accompanied by mosquitos for the rest of my life as long as I would never meet another sandfly again!
After another two days along the pretty Tasman sea coastline we made our way to Fox glacier, and decided to go for a hike the following day. However the next day, for some reason the weather gods decided to dump an incredible amount of water upon us. We still did the trek and no matter how soaked we got, we enjoyed the shit out of it. Johan felt like he could stay up there forever, but I'd rather not.

After the trek we got on the bikes again, only to ride the toughest hills we've done so far. The 25km ride from Fox glacier to Franz Joseph contained three massive hills that would make Lance Armstrong stop to catch his breath. Although, now that we're down in Franz Joseph we feel pretty good about ourselves. The plan for now is to get to Nelson and catch up with Jack and the Hamburgers for Christmas. Supposedly Nelson has the best weather in the whole country... I reckon we deserve that after theese rainfalls.

Now it's time to keep scrathing our sandfly bites, nasty buggars.

See you soon!

Queenstown

We left Invercargill behind us, this time accompanied by our new friend Zane from Colorado, who's also cycling through the country! We met him at the hostel over a "few" slabs of beer and our new favourite game, "Udda eller jämnt". It turned out he liked the brews just as much as we do! The first day of cycling however was neat! No crazy winds blowing us off the bikes, and no exhausting hills to climb! Just easy flat cycling, which resulted in us cycling 85km that day! Then we camped in a little village called Lumsden, we made our tents up in the middle of the park, not knowing that we were just meters away from the local police station. Fortunate for us though was that they didn't care the slightest! The day after, Zane was heading west towards Te Anau and we were going north towards Queenstown so, we took farewell and kept on pedalling.

The following day was pretty rough though, but the scenery totally made up for it! Biking uphill feels so much easier when you do it next to postcard landscapes! After those 65 kilometeres we finally made it to Queenstown, where we are staying right now! This means we have cycled a total of 830km so far!

Queenstown wharf

The road along lake Wakatipu

Queenstown is a very pretty little town, with a mere 8.500 inhabitants, but 1,8 million visitors each year, which means it's very busy. It's beautiful though, located just at the shore of lake wakatipu, surrounded by rugged mountains. (This is where they actually shot a lot of the scenes from the Lord of the rings trilogy). It seems to be a very new city where all the buildings seem to have popped up just over the last decade. Reminds me a lot of the Austrian ski-resorts. The next destination for our journey will be Wanaka which is a day or two from here, but, we have to pass a massive mountain! Gulp..

I heard a funny kiwi-australia joke today, Do you know the difference between Australia and yoghurt?
-Atleast yoghurt has got a little culture!

South!

The first 650km from Christchurch to Invercargill

We are now located in Invercargill, at the very bottom of New Zealand! I don't think we will ever get this close to the south pole unless we're in Chile or antarctica itself. It's a pretty quiet city with somewhat 50.000 inhabitants. Still feels amazing to have a bed to sleep in, a hot shower and all the other stuff we lack when camping though. It's been some very rough days cycling the last week actually, yesterday was the worst one so far. 55km with an insane headwind that would make the Swedish january-storm Gudrun look like a summer breeze in comparison. In addition to that, there's been hailstorms, rain, punctured tyres and arrogant truckdrivers overtaking like their life depended on it! We are both alive and well rested today though and actually still looking forward to hop on the bike tomorrow. We are now at the starting point of the route we had planned from the beginning, meaning this first 650km was just warming up. Neither one of us have that sore of an ass yet so it still feels compelling to keep on going. The next checkpoint for us will be Queenstown about 6 days north from Invercargill. It's going to be more hills than we have experienced so far i reckon, but also more rain. The westcoast is world famous for it's wet and humid weather! Awesome.

A tiny kiwi hill

Dunedin

It's now sunday evening here in Dunedin and we should probably try to get some rest tonight before we head off for new adventures tomorrow. We've had a very busy weekend, with very late nights! Dunedin is a quite small city, but got the pulse of a big one. Probably due to the University here which is the oldest one in New Zealand!
It's got a lot of beautiful architecture from the old colonial days when Otago was the richest province because of the gold deposits! The word Dunedin is celtic for Edinburgh which does make sense because the whole city is filled with scottish influences!
We went to a nightclub yesterday called the "Monkey bar" which is located in an old church! Felt pretty awkward to shake the booty in the house of god? We also met a whole bunch of cool people here who also shared our passion for beer!
Today we went to see the new movie "In time" starring Justin Timberlake. Was pretty cool and definitely worth seeing!

Anyway, heading south towards Invercargill tomorrow!
Ciao

Christchurch, the start of the Cycle trip!

We arrived in Christchurch at about 00:15 and realized that accomodation would be impossible to find this time of the day. So we laid down on the airport floor, thinking we could sleep for a few hours. Minutes later, we were awoken by an angry security guard, declaring that we may not under any circumstances sleep here, but we were however allowed to move twenty meters down the hall to sleep at the ”designated rest area”. Some hours later, we decided to go catch the bus to the city. We were of course aware that an earthquake had hit Christchurch a few months earlier but when the bus driver told us that the whole city centre was inside the ”red zone” and that he could not take us there, we were surprised! He did however take us to the bus station and we made our way from there. A few hours later, we decided to walk around the compound surrounding the damaged area. It was shocking to see it with our own eyes. Around 600 buildings in and around the CBD had been destroyed, taking the lives of 180 people with them. This happened in February, but the city still looked like the catastrophy that had struck it. 

Our main quest in Christchurch though, was of course to buy the bicycles this trip is going to be made upon. After walking through a dozen stores or so, we decided to go for the deal we had gotten in the first store.

We got ourselves two brand new Hybrid MTB -GT Transeo 3.0, with disc brakes, kevlar tyres, 24 gears, lockable suspension and all the necessary gear and gadgets, plus a tralier with a drysack, to keep all our belongings in, for NZ$-1300, which is around 7000 SEK.

We waited for another day for the guys at bicycle business to assemble all the stuff for us and then at 12:15 we took off on our great adventure. It took us some time to find our way out from the city, but once we did, we were so excited. The first day we cycled 45,7 km until we decided to call it a day and make some dinner. That night, we camped at the shore of lake Ellesmere.

We started the next day with some oatmeal in the sun, packed our belongings and took off. The landscape here in Canterbury is pretty much just farmland, farmland and farmland. You can see the beautiful southern alps in the horizon, but apart from that it's all just flat and green. (I've got a feeling that's going to change pretty soon though!) 

After about 50km we stopped for lunch next to the main road. After a few minutes, two fellow bikers came along and said Servus! It was a german couple that had been cycling for 19 months. Starting in Germany, they had gone all the way through eastern europe and asia down to singapore, then taken a flight to Brisbane and cycled to Melbourne for another flight to Auckland and they were just about to finish their trip once they got to Christchurch. It really inspired me and gave me all the energy I needed to keep on going the next 21km to get to Ashburton. Well there, we find ourselves a nice little spot just behind an old industry. We had to share it with some rats, but neither of us cared.

We are now in Oamaru, about 120 km from Dunedin, where we'll probably stay for the weekend, feeling proud of ourselves for cycling over 400 km already! After that, Invercargill in the very south of NZ is the goal and once we are there we are going to start cycling north on the westcoast!

See you soon.

Halloween

After the Overland track, we got to Hobart, which is the largest city in Tasmania, but very small compared to Melbourne. It's a very neat and picturesque city located around the outlet of river derwent with the massive Mt Wellington in the horizon. We didn't have to sit down in Princess' park for a long time before a guy walks up to us and says, you must be Scandinavian! How could you tell, we replied. Then he said. You are barefoot, bearded, tanned and your drinking beers. Haha, is that the stereotype?
Anyway, this guy, Ben, had been living in Finland for about five years and could therefore speak excellent swedish!

After a few more days in Hobart, we flew back to Melbourne again. We've had beautiful weather, great temperatures, awesome people to share it with and cold beers to satisfy our thirst.

Last night was as you all know halloween and my dear friend Martin Bo Erik Eriksson, alias E-type, and his band Oh'Deanna was playing at the Empress in Nicholson street. I have so been looking forward to hear them play for a long time. I really liked it, glad they started playing together again! Good luck in the future!

Ericsson and Deanna!

Oh yeah, that's right... I forgot to tell you that a lethal virus started spreading through Melbourne yesterday, some of us felt really sick, we felt dead. After a few hours in the bar, listening to some other band playing after Oh'Deanna, it was time to say farewell to everyone. Because today, we are finally flying to Christchurch New Zealand.
We are going to buy them bikes, and start riding.
Are we excited or what!

Anyway, thank you Melbourne for this time, it's been lovely.. And especially the Vaughan family, thank you for taking care of us like we were family! I love you all!

The Overland Track

You think I'm nuts?, the coachdriver answered when I asked him if he had done the Overland track. I might be lazy, but I'm not stupid, he continued. But it seems you got the best possible weather for your adventure, you know it changes rapidly here in Tasmania.

We were initially going to wait for a day or two in Launceston until the heavy snow covering the mountains had disappeared, But due to the fact that the buses only go twice a week from Launceston to Cradle valley, we had no choice but to get up there straight away. When we finally arrived around midday, the lady in the Visitors centre told us we shouldn't go out on the track today unless we were prepared for heavy snow. She said there had been more than one group turning back today already. I can't really say we were prepared for it, but we both thought that it can't possibly be worse than back home in Sweden. And to stay overnight in Cradle valley didn't sound very attractive at all.

Johan at the start of the Track

The Overland track is a 85 km long track, divided into seven daytrips with small basic huts at the end of every day.  We needed to walk 11 km to reach the first hut, Waterfall Valley. We had to climb the highest plateau on the whole track, trek through a snowcovered landscape, and then get down on the other side. In addition to that, the strong sun and the non-existing Tasmanian Ozonelayer had turned the tracks into rivers and waterfalls. When we after a few hours of climbing actually got up on the plateau and saw the Cradle mountain in the horizon, we felt very enthusiastic.

Me with the beautiful Cradle Mountain

 Once we got to the Waterfall valley Hut, we were greeted by 5 exhausted frenchmen. Placing our soaked shoes next to their boots under the heater, we realized that we should probably have bought boots ourselves because they weren't even wet.
 

During the night, the temperature had dropped down to far below zero and the paths that had turned into rivers yesterday, were now frozen. We had to be very cautious trying to make the steep descend down from Waterfall Valley. But taking our time we made it without falling even once. After a few hours though we were accompanied by the sun again, thawing the track for us. Once we got to the next hut, it was only around 11 o'clock. We realized we needed to make two daytrips in one day to make it to the bus to Hobart, since they also only depart twice a week.

We decided to stop for lunch and then proceed the next 15 km. The soup we were boiling attracted a whole family of kangaroos and they weren't the slightest frightened by us. They got so close we could almost pet them. Not like the mainland kangaroos that leap away at the very first sight of a human.

Skippy the kangaroo?

The rest of the day we walked through a muddy, dense, myrtle beech rainforest, with roots and rocks everywhere to remind you that you can't just put your feet everywhere. This was a very exhausting part of the track and we were very satisfied to reach the Pelion hut, for some pasta and a good nights sleep.

The summit of Mt Ossa just behind me

The third daytrip included our first sidetrack. The 5 km uphill path to Mt Ossa, which is Tasmanias highest peak with it's 1617 meters, included a 490 meter climb. We could however leave our backpacks at the junction, only bringing a daypack for the sidetrip. When we after maybe 2 hours of climbing the steep rocky path up to mt Ossa could finally see its summit, we realized we weren't going to be able to make it. There was a 1 meter thick snowlayer covering the treacherous path. In addition to this, the sun had started to melt it and you could actually hear the water running beneath us. It would almost be like passing a glacier so we decided to turn back. I felt a bit sad when we were walking down but Johan cheered me up when he told me Göran Kropp had to turn back 100 meters from the peak of Mt Everest.

The following day, the blue skies had been replaced by a massive snowstorm. It didn't really matter to us though, since the fascination of walking through a snow covered rainforest made us really enthusiastic. It felt almost prehistoric in a weird way and the only thing that seemed to be missing was dinosaurs.

Doing the Overland track was pretty much my first multi-day trek and I loved it. I would recommend it to everyone. It's not just the trek itself, with an astonishing view of the harsch prehistoric landscape. It's equally as much a pause from civilization, a chance to reflect over your life situation and a great opportunity to meet wonderful people along the way. When we finally got to Cynthia bay, which is the very end of the track, I felt amazing. Full of endorfines, we sat down and had the beer we had been imagining for so long. I felt proud of myself for completing the whole walk and also very calm about the upcoming challenge of cycling through New Zealand. I can't wait actually.

GMO and some parklife

Yesterday was another busy but fulfilling day in a beautiful Melbourne. Went for a run in the morning and after breakfast Gemma took me to one of her lectures about GMO food, which was pretty interesting. I'm happy to see that they were being honest about the subject. I mean of course there are benefits of growing GMO food, but there are risks aswell. Especially in the developing countries where the eco systems often are far more sensitive than those in europe or america. I think we are fortunate to live in Scandinavia where some restrictions for importing GMO-food still apply and where all common sense hasn't been removed in the name of free trading. What really stroke me though was, If it's possible to get larger harvests from growing GMO-crops, how come so many people are still starving? It doesn't make any sense and we have to change this!

The four muppets

After the lecture we met up with some friends in the Carlton gardens for some drinks and silly walking! Great fun.

Now it's time to book some tickets for Tassie! 

Reunions!

Johan and Mr E-type

Chilling at St Kilda beach

After five days in Melbourne I'm actually starting to feel like home again! After spending time with the people I haven't seen for ages, and walking the streets I used to walk like a year ago, I'm getting a warm feeling inside, I feel amazing! I went for a run this morning along the Maribyrnong as I used to so many times before with my dear friend Hanus! And it felt wonderful, I suddenly realized how much I've actually missed this city. I can only imagine what Sweden would be like this time of the year, but I don't really want to find out! I'm just fortunate to find myself on the southern hemisphere right now!

These last few days have been really busy, we've been walking an awful lot, but it all feels necessary after two lazy weeks in Thailand but also because of the upcoming quest in New Zealand! We've met up with a lot of my dear Melbourne friends, but also with Sanket from India, whom i haven't seen since 2009! We've also had quite a few beers, only because we want to honour the Australian culture... Not really, but they are too good to resist!

Even though I'm enjoying the crap out of Melbourne right now, I very much look forward to Tasmania and some sweet trekking!

Life is awesome, keep living it!

Cold VIC

After a few rough nights in Kuala Lumpur we're now finally down in Melbourne! It's so much colder than i could ever have expected, from a 35+ KL to 8 degrees VIC! It's still gonna be nice though, we have lots of stuff to do these weeks! When we arrived at the airport, the taxi driver didn't want to take us to Adam's place since it's in Essendon, and he was finishing. After a few minutes of convincing he would accept the way it is and start the engine!
Today is the Aussie rules grand finals between Geelong and Collingwood, and we'll be watching it at the quiet man together with best company! Looking forward to it!
See you soonish!

Koh Tao

Even though we had a quite rough night we woke up early yesterday and decided we should go for a walkabout around the island and see what we find. We walked for hours seeing nothing but houses, litter, people and advertisement, until like all of a sudden the most beautiful cove would appear in front of us! We were startled and thought that nothing we people create, no matter how grand, can ever compete with the natural beauty of our mother Gaia!

After a day spent in a boat and a bus, we're once again back in Bangkok for a last night before we'll go back to KL! I don't even know how many times i have been there but i always feel welcome! Then it's off to Melbourne to catch up with all them awesome people!

Tuk Tuk

Johan enjoying a cold one in Bangkok

You want Túk Túk sir?

It feels amazing to be back in South East Asia again! After another year in Sweden i almost forgot what it's like! It's incredibly hot and humid, and it's literally been raining all day but it doesn't really matter since we've had the best possible company since the minute we arrived. Not only are the Thai people remarkably warm and friendly but the other fellow travellers we've bumped into have been awesome people too. 

The view from our balcony, a beautiful tree!

We haven't really been doing anything extraordinary so far though. It's been all about relaxing, thai-massages, sun bathing, delicious Thai food and buckets of whiskey. The country is beautiful and affordable and I understand why tourists love this country. The thing that bothers me though, is seeing what we tourists are turning Thailand into. For instance the island we are living on at the moment, used to be an Island populated by humble fishermen. 10 years ago, they had electricity for like 6 hours a day. They didn't have air condition or other western comforts. They were living a simple life. Now, there's restaurants serving food from all the corners of the world. There's five star hotel resorts, cinemas, seven eleven stores, you name it. Isn't travelling really supposed to be about experiencing the foreign cultures without enforcing our own culture upon them? 

The beautiful view of Koh Tao

Having said that, I still enjoy the shit out of life right now, and my journey just only started! Thailand is a beautiful country where the poeple are just as warm as the climate! And I am so grateful that i can be here to experience it!

After a few more days of chilling out here on Koh Tao, we'll be heading back the intensive Bangkok and catch a flight to Kuala Lumpur!

The last day in Sweden

Johan and I, Ready for the world.

Here I am, spending my last day in a dusky Sweden for quite a while! In my mind I'm already far away, and have been for some time now. It's just a couple of hours left of what felt like an eternity when i booked the tickets! Tomorrow I'll once again be heading down south east Asia, this time however accompanied by my brother. After a few weeks down there, another Air-Asia plane will take us to Melbourne, to meet up with my beloved friends whom I haven't seen for ages! It's going to be equally as sentimental as inspiring! After that, we'll hopefully be heading down a few latitudes to trek the Tasmanian Overland track!
Even though Australia is a marvelous country with amazing people, the main goal for this trip will be cycling through New Zealand! And not just some of it, My brother and I will be cycling the very length of it. from the southern tip, to the northernmost edge.

That's our quest, and also what you will be reading about in this blog!

See you soon!